Keum Boo: Gold with Integrity
As the cost of precious metals continues to rise, many people are looking more closely at how their jewellery is made—not just what it’s made from. One technique that has become increasingly relevant is Keum Boo, a traditional metalworking process that offers the beauty of high-carat gold in a way that is both thoughtful and enduring.
Keum Boo is an ancient Korean technique that involves fusing thin sheets of pure 24ct gold directly onto sterling silver using heat and pressure. Unlike gold plating or vermeil, the gold is not applied as a surface coating. Instead, it becomes permanently bonded to the silver beneath, creating a finish that is integral to the piece rather than sitting on top of it.
This distinction is important. Gold plating and vermeil rely on microns of gold layered over another metal. Over time, especially with regular wear, that layer can wear away, revealing the base metal beneath. Keum Boo, by contrast, creates a durable, long-lasting bond. The gold will not flake or peel, and with proper care, it ages gracefully alongside the silver.
There is also an honesty to Keum Boo that aligns with values of integrity and craftsmanship. The warmth of pure gold sits in direct contrast to bright silver, celebrating both materials rather than disguising one as the other. The result is jewellery that feels intentional, tactile and quietly luxurious.
I particularly enjoy setting colourful gemstones in Keum Boo using a Star Setting technique. The star is created using sharp graver tools which cut away tiny fragments of metal, leaving a polished bright cut, and revealing the bright white silver beneath.
I mindfully ensure that each star is unique, along with the form and shape of each pendant itself.
Click here to see my collection of handcrafted Keum Boo jewellery, aptly names the Aureate Collection.
In a climate of rising gold prices, Keum Boo is also a cost-effective way to work with high-carat gold. By using pure gold selectively and meaningfully, it allows for beautiful gold details without relying on large quantities of the material. This makes it possible to create precious, handcrafted jewellery that remains accessible without compromising on quality or ethics.
Keum Boo isn’t about imitation—it’s about using materials with purpose. Jewellery made this way tells a story of skill, restraint and respect for the materials themselves.